Swan Hellenic is probably best-known for its expedition cruises to the Arctic and Antarctica, but this year saw the launch of its first Asia Pacific season. Writer Rebecca Barnes hopped on board the SH Minerva as it sailed to Japan and Korea.
The occupants of Sado Island might be nicknamed saddos, but they give a jolly reception to SH Minerva on its maiden call into this serene port, which sees few international tourists, let alone cruise ships.
After a few hours discovering the historic Shukunegi village and sailing in the traditional tub boats of the Ogi coast, steered masterfully with a single oar, we are sent on our way with shots of sake and other tokens of appreciation.
The sound of Taiko drums fades into the humid air as our small, 152-passenger expedition ship charts a course to our next port, Sakura.
This is a cultural expedition cruise from Hiroshima to Otaru. Japan’s best-known tourist spots are reported to be suffering from over-tourism, but we are sailing off the beaten track to discover a world of esoteric Buddhism, Shinto shrines, eco-experiences and otherworldly culture.
My home for the 10-night cruise is the last word in boutique Scandi style: contemporary yet homely, it’s small enough to easily navigate, with lifts to all decks for those who need them.
There are two dining venues: the main Swan restaurant and the Club Lounge/Pool Grill for more casual bites. There’s a broad selection of options at the breakfast and lunch buffets, while dinner is à la carte. The service is on point, with staff intuitive to guests’ needs, and the quality is excellent, although I would’ve liked to see a little more Japanese food. My vegan companion struggled a bit with options at dinner.
Accommodation is spread across three decks, with the majority – balcony staterooms (pictured below) – located on decks five and six. There are 16 ocean view staterooms on deck four, with large windows, and six gorgeous interconnecting suites with separate living rooms, double-width balconies and bathtubs as well as showers.
Other facilities include a gym, a spa with refreshingly reasonable prices, a large Jacuzzi, a sauna with a panoramic window, an infinity pool, and an observation lounge for daily briefings, lectures and pre- and post-dinner drinks and entertainment.
A unique feature is the signature Swan’s Nest observation spot at the front of the ship, an excellent spot for wildlife spotting.
On this itinerary, unlike other Swan Hellenic expedition sailings, there are no Zodiac (small boat) landings. I feel this is a missed opportunity, as they could have taken us closer to remote shorelines and wildlife, such as white-sided dolphins, which are spotted by some of those on my cruise. I do a quick vox pop with some of the other guests and, while they love the ship, they almost unanimously agree.
Swan Hellenic was the pioneer of cultural expedition cruising in the 1950s, so one thing they do really well is visit unusual, lesser-known destinations. The ships have no issue accessing small ports, and indeed, on our sailing, celebratory fanfares and plaque exchanges are an almost daily occurrence.
With onboard entertainment fairly low key, cultural immersion, enrichment and discovery is a focus, with the sociable expedition team delivering talks and lectures on topics including history, geology and wildlife to bring the destinations alive. In addition, daily briefings provide insight to the places guests visit on their excursions.
A country like Japan has so much to offer, and clients will want to see, experience and learn as much as possible. From pilgrimages to authentic food and, of course, temples and shrines, there are many immersive excursions to choose from – the tour guides are engaging and excellent too – and I’m off the ship every day.
One of many highlights includes a nature trek through the beech forests of the Daisen-Oki National Park in the Tottori prefecture, one of the most extensive and oldest in Japan and home to Mount Daisen, the highest peak in the Chugoku region.
This is true forest bathing in the country that invented it, taking in the diverse flora and fauna and pausing at the sacred Daisen Shrine for a chance to reflect on the spiritual connection the Japanese people have long held with the mountain.
We also dock in Busan, Korea’s second largest city (below), with clusters of sky-high buildings that would give Dubai a run for its money – even though 70% of its land is mountainous.
Originally built by refugees of the Korean War, and now a tourist attraction and cultural hub, the eclectic Gamcheon Culture Village is also known as the Machu Picchu or Santorini of Korea, thanks to its colourful, tiered houses.
It’s a delight to wander amidst visitors sporting full Hanbok – the local Korean attire, complete with hair styling, can be rented for Instagram snaps. We also sample the local viral street food trend – toasted marshmallow ice cream: warm on the outside with a frosty centre.
Need to know
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- Encourage clients to secure excursions in advance, as the popular ones get snapped up
- Some itineraries are cruise only, so ensure clients have booked transport, including the Shinkansen (bullet train) before they travel
- I found that English wasn’t widely spoken in some lesser-known ports, so translation tools are useful, especially when speaking to taxi drivers, for example. Local currency is also very useful to have
- The self-service laundry on deck 4 is open 24/7, so overpacking is not necessary
An 11-night Japan and Korea cruise: Cultural Shores and Northern Landscapes departing 19 June 2027, costs from £8,650 per person and includes all meals, 24-hour room service, coffee, tea, soft drinks and selected alcoholic beverages, one selected shore excursion activity per port of call, standard wifi, gratuities and port taxes. Rebecca was a guest of Swan Hellenic.
