As I’d never been on a cold-water expedition cruise, I wasn’t sure what to expect from a trip to Alaska or Antarctica. How often do you go on land, what should I wear, what wildlife can you see, when is the best time to go, can I camp on the ice and what the heck is a Zodiac?
So, with these questions in mind, I joined around 350 agents – 110 from the UK – on an HX Expeditions mega fam on board MS Fridtjof Nansen to find out more.
The 490-guest Fridtjof Nansen and identical sister ship Roald Amundsen are the two largest in the HX fleet, and these are the ships you’d travel on to Antarctica and Alaska.
Full disclosure: we did not go to either destination on the fam, we went to Helgoland, a small island off in the North Sea, but it was a great opportunity to see the ship and learn how expedition cruising works.
You know the moment you step on board the MS Fridtjof Nansen that this isn’t like any regular cruise ship. You enter through the Science Centre, on deck 6, past vast cinema screens showing videos of the ocean, and past tall round tables with microscopes and plastic animal skeletons in glass cabinets.
There’s also a small reception desk, a shop and two restaurants on deck 6.
My balcony suite (pictured below) on deck 9 was so much more comfortable than I’d envisaged, with a large bed facing a spacious balcony, two lovely leather armchairs, a vanity unit-come-work station, a fully stocked mini bar, a walk-in wardrobe and a decent-sized shower room.
There were tea and coffee-making facilities in the room (a big plus for the Brits), plus all guests are given water bottles that can be refilled at the water stations on every deck. There are also recycling bins in the rooms, and if guests elect not to have their cabins serviced each day, HX makes a donation to its Foundation as part of its sustainability initiative.
HX encourages guests to think of their cabin as their ‘base camp’ for the expedition, and I would have been happy with any of those on MS Fridtjof Nansen, all of which are outside – meaning they all have a view – and 50% have balconies.
However, suite guests do get complimentary access to the Lindstrom restaurant, which is a nice, intimate space, and a lot quieter than the main Aune dining room. Non-suite guests can book a table at Lindstrom, if there’s room, for €15 a head for breakfast, €25 for lunch and €35 for dinner.
Aune has an extensive but not overwhelming buffet service for breakfast and lunch, but dinner is à la carte. There’s a second restaurant included in the fare, Fredheim, where I had a delicious ‘chef’s special’ steak sandwich for lunch, but this dining room does get very busy.
There are two outdoor hot tubs and a small, heated outdoor pool, and an outdoor bar, on deck 10, where you’ll also find the large Explorer lounge, the daytime and evening entertainment venue.
The ship also has a well-equipped indoor gym, outdoor running track and small outdoor gym, a roomy sauna with a large picture window (imagine sitting there sweating, floating passed icebergs) and a wellness centre.
And now for the extra fun bit.
All guests on expedition cruises have the option to make land visits, take tours in a Zodiac – which, I discovered, is an inflatable motor boat, take guided kayaking tours (for an extra cost) or even spend a night sleeping on the ice. There’s no need to book these activities before you get on board.
You’ll find a warm jacket in your cabin on arrival and all guests are provided with rubber boots for exploring on the ice. However, you need to bring warm layers, including thermals and waterproof trousers.
Usually, you make one landing in the morning or afternoon and spend the other half of the day either relaxing on board, enjoying a lecture or in the Science Centre – maybe examining water samples through those microscopes you saw when you boarded – or you can go kayaking or on a Zodiac tour.
HX Expeditions has rigid two-man kayaks on board (€199pp), which allow you to get close to the wildlife such as seals and penguins, but if you don’t feel confident paddling, it also has inflatable ‘discovery’ kayaks (€130pp), which are easier to handle. Thermal onesies are provided.
It also hosts two-hour snowshoeing expeditions, which are included in the price. Snowshoes are provided.
Once during an expedition cruise, up to 60 guests can take part in an overnight camping expedition. You’ll sleep under the stars in a bivouac (which costs €350pp) or in a two-man tent (€450pp).
Before signing up for the camping, you must attend a lecture to make sure you know what you’re in for. It’s quite strenuous because you have to put up your own tent, which requires digging in the snow. Also, you need to use a portaloo, and that’s not for everyone. And it’s pretty cold out there.
In reality, there aren’t usually more than 60 guests who make the cut, I’m told, so if you want to do it, you’re likely to get your wish. If there are more than 60, names go into a lucky draw.
Altogether, I was reassured that HX Expeditions would provide a very, very comfortable base camp from which to explore either Alaska or Antarctica, and that there would be plenty of opportunities to get close to the wildlife and nature, despite the relatively large size of the ship.
I’m tempted to say all other expedition cruise lines can go home now, I’ve found The One, and agents I spoke to on board were all similarly impressed with MS Fridtjof Nansen, different guests might have different preferences. Some might prefer a smaller, more intimate ship, others might want a bigger vessel with more facilities. As Martin Johnson from Latin Routes said, MS Fridtjof Nansen is a good ‘cross-over’ ship for those more used to the bigger, all-singing, all-dancing ocean cruises.
As part of its 130 anniversary celebrations, HX Expeditions has recreated an 1896 Cabin, now open for guests to book on MS Fridtjof Nansen in 2026 for one night only, for €100 per person. It sleeps up to three.
Also, from 1 May 1 to 31 July, travel advisors will receive a £130 gift card for every new, fully deposited booking, applicable to individual and named group bookings across HX’s global destination portfolio, with rewards issued per booking.
To register a booking, visit the agentportal.travelhx.com or email hxtradesupport@travelhx.com.
The cruise line is also offering up to £1,000 pp air credit for Antarctica bookings from 11 May to 30 June.
