Hotel Saski probably doesn’t feature on any publications’ or bloggers’ top 10 list of places to stay in Krakow, but if your clients are looking for a historic but contemporary hotel with great service, wellness facilities and close to the main attractions of the Old Town, it’s a definite contender.
Part of Hilton’s Curio Collection, the hotel is a genius blend of 200 years of history and modern facilities. Famous composers, including Chopin, Brahms and Liszt once played in its concert hall (sadly long gone) and Saski pays homage to its musical heritage with subtle touches, such as hanging portraits of musicians including Louis Armstrong and Aretha Franklin in its corridors and bedrooms.
You enter the hotel from a side street just off the historic main market square, into a smart lobby with a bank of lifts in the centre, hiding the reception desk at the rear. The effect is of a boutique but grand hotel. During our visit, just before Christmas, there was a large, beautifully decorated tree in front of the reception area, which was very festive.
Check in was swift and friendly. The receptionist quickly outlined the charge for breakfast (at £30 a head, we opted to skip it) and sent us off to our room on the second floor.
It was spacious and tastefully decorated with neutral decor, but the Art Deco-style furnishings injected it with warmth and character. A mini-bar and drinks station with both tea and coffee-making facilities was disguised as a 1920s-style wireless, and we had a simple writing table and two comfy armchairs.
I thought having twin queen-sized beds was odd, but slightly more expensive rooms with king-size beds were available (I hadn’t noticed this when I booked). They were certainly very comfortable.
Our roomy bathroom was also tastefully decorated with brass fittings, and a large bath and overhead power shower, and I’m pleased to report that the floor was heated. However, talking of heat, I found it was impossible to lower the room temperature to less than 19C on the in-room thermostat, which was too hot for me at night.
Tip: The ‘Old Town’ rooms have views over Krakow’s main square, which is a sight well worth the money. Our room sadly had no view. Some guests staying on the lower floors have complained of noise from the street, but we had no issues on the second floor.
One of the hotel’s key selling points is its proximity to Krakow’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the main square and St Mary’s Basilica and its hourly trumpet call, which is only a few steps from the front door. Even Wawel Castle and Cathedral, possibly Krakow’s most recognisable feature, are a pleasant 15-minute stroll away.
From the Hotel Saski, it’s even possible to walk to Kazimierz, the historic and atmospheric Jewish quarter of Krakow if you’re feeling energetic. To reach the Wieliczka salt mines, Krakow’s other must-see attraction, if only for its vast and impressive underground St Kinga’s cathedral, you can make use of Krakow’s efficient public transport system, or take a taxi.
Tip: Uber is available in Krakow but Bolt is cheaper. We found it was a third of the price of an Uber from the international airport to the city centre
We started our days with breakfast in one of the many excellent independent cafes close to the hotel, having eschewed its buffet, which looked nice but small. I can highly recommend the French toast or scrambled eggs in LAS at Golebia 5, and the Shakshuka at Camelot Cafe, a former brothel now full of cozy candle-lit café tables (some precariously placed on a wide interior window ledge). Lunch at its more elegant sister bistro, Camelot Lulu, where we tucked into beetroot soup and chicken Kiev, was also a highlight of our visit.
After a chilly day stomping around the site, it was bliss to head down to Saski’s spacious and spotlessly clean wellness area. The multiple jets in the good-sized pool might have done little to ease my aching calf muscles, but it felt good to stand in front of them for a while before warming up in the surprisingly capacious sauna or the steam room.
Following a couple of aperitifs in the hotel’s small bar, which was nice but empty and lacking in atmosphere, we headed back into the old town for dinner. My favourite restaurant was Fiorentina, a Michelin-recommended establishment at Grodzka 63. Both my spicy beef broth starter and duck breast in a red wine sauce were delicious and beautifully presented
Tip: You do need to make dinner reservations if you’re visiting during a busy period. In the second week of December, we found many places were full.
Of course, Krakow is full of more casual dining options where you can tuck into local specialities such as pierogi (dumplings) and zapiekanka, Poland’s version of a pizza. I was also tempted to try pork knuckle from one of the stalls in the Christmas market in the main square, but my husband was less keen!
The city has plenty of after-dinner entertainment, including a small but very popular jazz bar in a basement on the main square, and the Free Pub, also in a basement, just opposite the Hotel Saski, which seems to be a particular favourite of Liverpudlians!
In fact, the hotel is so well located that nowhere in Krakow is that far away, which is a particular bonus during the winter, when temperatures can plummet to well below zero and guests will want to minimise time spent outdoors.
Rates start at about £157 for a double or £167 for views of the old town (singles and accessible rooms are available), rising to £1,077 for a suite sleeping four.
